Cashmere Gasket Central Pin U3

If I may, I'll add a question: without actually having to disassemble the keyboard, how can one tell if these gaskets need to be replaced? Perhaps you have already explained it but I missed it.

I dare to answer.

In the case of taller pianos, such as my Yamaha U3, due to construction choices, the capstans (K9 in the previous figure, 'capstan' in English) are very long.

Here is an example http://pianoa-z.com/.../1150-large.jpg

What happens is that as these "gaskets" wear down (please correct me if I am using imprecise terms), the friction is lost and the action becomes too loose.

Adjacent capstans can touch each other, creating a "tack" sound that can be annoying in certain passages.

This is why those gaskets need to be replaced.

Or at least, this is the reason why I want to replace them.

Here is the difference between the action of my U3 with long capstans http://www.drpianotellsall.com/DSCF0886.JPG

rather than another model with very short capstans http://www.davidhughespiano.com/media/inserts_sm/capstan.jpg

Understood. My '76 Petrof is only 115 cm high, so even without taking it apart, I can rule out having the same problem. Anyway, since it is a rather old piano, I am waiting for the opinion of our experts regarding possible signs of wear.

Well, it also depends on how much you use it

Redoing the cashmere gaskets (or Kasimir, as you prefer) is not something for beginners and not even, sometimes, for technicians... in their early stages. In such a new piano, it is impossible that the central pin gaskets need to be replaced. Careful, that slowness you feel may instead depend on the adjustment of the pin-nails that guide the front part of the keys.

Do you mean my Yamaha U3?

You should see in person how I've reduced it.

Oh my god, even my father plays it...

So, I pose the following questions to you:

1) where do you recommend I get the cashmere?

2) how to optimally remove the old one? Do I have to use a Dremel?

3) Can I use a "diaphanous" thread of vinavil (white glue) to glue it?

I don't recommend undertaking the work yourself at all. I advise you to rely on a good technician who can do it properly, using the hot system, where pressing and heat make the faces perfectly parallel, requiring minimal "play." The work requires precision equipment. Warning: in my opinion, hot glue must be used strictly, the bead type. No Vinavil

Thank you Paolo,

i have received the advice and I will definitely follow it.