Good morning to all of you, let me introduce myself, my name is Bruno and I am a maker of bowed instruments, but in my free time I enjoy repairing my piano.
I was given an old Larsen upright piano with bayonet action and vertical strings; it holds its tuning surprisingly well. I have no specific requirements or demands for this instrument; I restored the cabinet and replaced all the felts, straps, skins, etc., because they were completely worm-eaten. The problem is the hammers. I had some hammers that replaced my old ones; I did some tests without gluing them by wedging them with some cotton in the hole: and here is the problem—after striking the key, the hammer returns perfectly, but while holding the finger down on the key, it strikes and remains against the strings. If someone can help me, thank you...
G
giovannip
Member
Reply 2 by giovannip
Posts
553
Welcome Bruno, you will surely get some answers from Paolo and other forum members
P.s wow! what a beautiful profession yours is, compliments...
Welcome among us. The rebound can depend on many factors. Certainly the key depth is insufficient for that hammer stroke. One must see the drilling distance of the new hammers. It should be the same or very similar to the old one.
Good evening, the key dip is 10mm and with these hammers it is only 30mm away from the strings at rest on the felt; I had thought about closing the holes and moving forward, I would be able to gain about 6 to 7mm, anyway I had to plug the holes of the inclined hammers
but no, it's all distorted. It is not appropriate to drill the hammer twice. And then it changes the entire "geometry of the action". Generally 45mm and 10 of depth. But with the original drilling
So one must find small hammers, or retreat with the wooden rod by placing a spacer where it is screwed in and recover 10mm before touching the damper rods, and to reach 45mm it would be enough for me to remove 5mm from the rod and use a 15mm spacer
