I have a piano that hasn't been tuned for at least 15 years and I would need a technical opinion.
I have been told that a piano that is not tuned for many years risks being irreparably damaged.
This seems a bit strange to me because, as an amateur, I imagine it is just a matter of adjusting the correct tension of the strings which, being made of steel and copper, should not lose their elasticity characteristics over time (obviously if the piano is kept in a suitable environment). Am I wrong?
Could anyone give me some more technical reasons to support this thesis and perhaps point me toward some technical reports on the subject?
Thank you.
P
Pianotuning
Reply 2 by Pianotuning
As a tuning technician, I confirm what has already been told to you.
It is terrible to let the instrument go untuned for years, because besides making the tuner's
work more laborious, there is a risk that the piano, following the stress resulting from the sudden
change in string tension (keep in mind that there are 230 strings in a piano and each has a tension of around 70 kg, for a total of about 18 tons), may be damaged and can no longer be tuned. For this reason as well, technicians recommend having the piano tuned at least once a year.
In cases like yours, where the instrument has not been tuned for many years, one must proceed with an initial tuning, wait for the instrument's reaction and, if all goes well, proceed with a second tuning intervention shortly thereafter.
Everything Pianotuning says is correct. I would like to add some clarifications.
It is necessary to check the grip of the tuning pins. Check if they are too loose due to the widening or ovalization of the soundboard capstan holes. If they are too loose, the tuning cannot hold. However, before giving up, one must see if it is possible to hammer them in. The pin around which the string is wound is "driven" into the hole to a certain depth. The hole made is certainly longer than the part of the pin that is driven in. By trying to hammer them, assuming there is room to do so, you push the pin into the depth of the hole that has not yet widened, and the grip could be partially recovered. This is, however, work that requires experience.
Another check is to see the load on the soundboard. The strings pressing on the bridge must have a certain angle both on the back-string side and on the nut side. This load must be measured; it must not be excessive, especially in older pianos, but it cannot be zero either. Otherwise, the sound transmission from the strings to the bridges would be nil, with no excitation of the soundboard, and many strings would break during tuning and/or subsequently.
Another check is the condition of the strings. Rust contributes to weakening the string in its uniformity and robustness. Be careful when removing it!! Removing excessive rust is equivalent to thinning the strings, decreasing their gauge!!!!!
Then, once the good condition of the strings has been verified, it is fine to attempt to bring the tuning back to 440. Some strings may still break. It is advisable to go up a bit relative to unison and let the structure stabilize. This creates a new "leveling fold" for the strings. Then, a stabilization tuning. A third tuning after some time. Good work.
Consider changing the strings and pins; it renews the sound of the instrument regardless, provided that the hammers—another part of the mechanics strongly responsible for the produced sound—are still efficient.
