Key Dip and Alignment

The important thing is, always first, to verify if 10 is sufficient. The depth must be such that it allows the escapement lever to "escape" + a certain amount (aftertouch). This "amount" can be established by a thickness of about 1.2-1.5 mm. Proceed as follows: decrease the key depth (on the front part of the key) with minimal and successive shims until, when placing the sample shim for the aftertouch, the lever no longer escapes. If too much, remove the minimal shims until reaching the limit of the "capacity" to escape. That is the correct measurement. For the black key: align all the parameters of the white keys. By also aligning a parameter of the black keys, its depth must be such that the hammer strikes at the same distance from the string as the one relative to the nearby white key. Otherwise, modify with shims on the front part. If it is not possible to determine the depth by intervening at the front (e.g., the strike is correct, but the lever does not "escape"), then intervene with shims in the central part, keeping in mind not to exceed the height of approximately 12.5 mm of the black key relative to the white key. Naturally, check all white and black keys with a gauge to be sure that the determined depth is equal to the samples. Generally, the black key has a slightly lower depth than the white key.

I hope I have been of help

hi

I tried but I cannot proceed as you suggested because before your response I had already modified everything, and so I find that in one octave there are ten different let-off measures. In fact, I had removed and then put back all the shims because I thought that once the hammer-string distance and the let-off of a key were set with certain shims, it would be enough to put the same ones under the other keys and I would have solved it... instead nothing, the keyboard was not aligned at all.

Now I am trying on keys 30 to 52 with the alignment of the hammer rails, or rather the small piece of wood where the hammer rail is screwed because I also tried to regulate those 🙂, I adjusted the let-off to 10 mm on key 52 and from there I went up to 30, but in the end, with all (let's say) the hammer rails aligned, the let-off is not uniform; near key 30 it only reaches about 7-8 mm. (Sorry, where can I buy the jig? I haven't found anything specific for the piano online) Having repeated this procedure two or three times and always obtaining the same result, I moved on to regulating the let-off of each individual key and... let's hope for the best 🙂

P.S. the piano action is the same as the model used in the video tutorial.

I will keep you updated

We must be clear: Some attempts by "non-technicians" can be made, but if the result is not satisfactory, one must rely on the "Technician" and a competent Technician. Piano regulations are interdependent, and if they are totally altered, the entire "geometry" of the instrument must be re-established. Don't take it personally, but at this point, I would advise you to entrust yourself to a professional.

Let me know

Yes, you are perfectly right regarding the technician, but I don't think I will call him since I play the piano only a few times now and when I feel like it, I play on the upright. So, convinced that I can manage to fix it thanks to the video tutorials and your suggestions, and also to all the practice I have done, I will continue to try.

Your suggestions are always welcome.

Thank you

Anyway, you can try again.

I would like to specify that you should start again from the general alignment of the keyboard (by acting on the center spacers). The keys should all be at the same height relative to the keybed. Then, with patience, redo the depth of the white keys (by acting on the front spacers of the whites). Then the height of the blacks (about 12-12.5 cm) (by acting on the center spacers). Then establish the depth of the blacks (by acting on the front spacers of the blacks). All while keeping in mind that little bit extra after the escapement lever has "escaped"

Try again. Good luck with your work.

P.S. Sometimes it is better to leave it for a while.... then go back to the attack.

Let me know

Sorry (this is a doubt I also had while watching the video tutorial), but that extra bit is still included in the 10mm of depth, right?

I will try again during the week and then let you know.

Thank you

It is certainly understood. It is the total measurement that must include the "after-touch"