good evening, once again I am asking for advice regarding two problems:
1- having fixed the key dip (approx. 7mm) I now notice that some white keys are higher than others; I imagine I need to intervene on the thickness of the center pin of the key, but what is the correct system to level the entire keyboard?
2- following Maestro Ferrarelli's instructions to the letter, I have regulated the action, it is an upright from the 50s, Renner action, with excellent results. Now I wouldn't mind feeling the keyboard a little more "resistant", a tiny bit less "soft". Where should I intervene?
I have moved the hammer rail away, about 9cm from the strings, do I need to replace some set of springs?
Waiting for your precious advice, I send warm greetings to all Camillapiano
Still incorrect! 9 mm is too little and 5.30 cm is very little!!!!!! Obviously, the correct adjustment optimizes the "mechanics geometry" and should also restore the right touch to the keyboard. However, one must first check the friction of the pins, which must be "just right". Then, one must observe if on such an old piano the hammer rail has been planed too much or with the wrong shape. This also affects the geometry and the response of the mechanics as well as the key dip weight. In the end, the reason for this "lack of consistency" in the touch will be verified. One must also check the felts of the repetition lever heels and the efficiency of the escapement upright springs. The wear of the leather on the repetition lever nut also has an effect, as do the leather on the wippen parts and the hard green felts of the hammer rails. Also check the efficiency of the dampers and their respective springs (that they are not excessively hard or soft). The felts of the damper levers that receive the hammer shank should also be checked. This sometimes, over time, creates a "dent" that prevents the movement of the repetition lever.
Naturally, all this is not a matter of "DIY," but the competence of a "skilled" technician, at least at the beginning when many things are discovered! Demand, as I always say, that whoever intervenes explains and details the specifics of the intervention they are performing or would like to perform on the instrument.
I don't know if there is an error in the videos. I don't know. But it is 43, 45, 47cm. A 10 mm dip is fine. Should the hammer rail be moved back or closer by removing thickness from its moving part, or rather by removing the felt spacers (if present) at the screws that fix it? Leveling the keyboard is not an easy task. It is necessary to have specific leveling plumb bobs and one acts on the paper washers of the center pins. One must respect the heights suggested by the Manufacturer so as not to make the general level excessively high. The "softness" of the keyboard can depend on many things and cannot be evaluated from a distance. In any case, any "weighting" of the keyboard with plumb bobs in the rear part is against all good sense. All frictions should be rechecked, as already stated, and an optimal adjustment found. It must be kept in mind that in the piano there are interdependent choices and adjustments that, often, do not stem from a simple application of the measurements to be observed.
