rollers mounted backwards.

The leather, whether real or synthetic, has a grain. This affects the "slip" of the escapement lever. If the roller is reversed, the escapement will be more braked because there is more friction!!!! Under the finger, one will feel a slight lack of docility in the lever in question to "escape" from the roller....this is not a small thing!

Curiously, I would like to know why the rollers were changed. Generally, the hammer rail is also worn out, and in that case, it is preferable to replace the entire hammer rail with one that is perfectly identical, along with new stiles complete with new rollers. Furthermore, check that the replaced rollers were mounted with the wooden core perfectly perpendicular to the stile. It is important.

How can one make a mistake, there is even a nice line above indicating the direction...

Thank you for the answer. Thanks to your videos, I am starting to understand something. But when I commissioned the restoration of this beautiful 100-year-old piano, I knew almost nothing about mechanics. Two—let's call them so—“improvised” restorers had assured me a nearly total recovery of the piano (changing strings and hammers) and the regulation of the action. In reality, the piano (a Chickering) which also has a charming sound, once delivered, immediately seemed poorly regulated in its mechanics to me. A friend who knew a little about it informed me that the repetitions were installed backwards, in addition to other things left to chance.

After watching your tutorials, I tried my hand at regulating the escapement. However, I never managed to achieve the one and a half millimeters of hammer travel after maximum excursion that the video speaks of. The hammer clicks into position much further away, almost close to the "check" position. The two improvised restorers recognized the error but assured me that since they had been attached with fish glue, by heating them, I could easily put things back in place. It doesn't matter if I paid thousands of euros... I am attaching photos to better explain the matter and eventually for a confirmation of what is suspected.

Thank you again.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0gPLk9t_1hEUDlzbTBTNWdhRFU/edit?usp=sharing

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0gPLk9t_1hEU1R5TVNEeGEtV0U/edit?usp=sharing

They seem correctly installed to me; if you look at the horizontal black line, it is in front as it should be.

Hi

If that's the case, it's right. We also need to see the diameter of the rollers. It's important. But do we have the old ones???

I don't know where to find the old rolls unless I contact the two people who sold them to me again. However, I only see the black horizontal line on 5-6 rolls. Precisely, knowing nothing, I photographed the roll with the black strip. So, is that what tells me they are mounted correctly? If they don't have the black strip at the top, does it mean they are incorrect? And in this case, about 80 would be mounted incorrectly. And could this cause the escapement problem?

Furthermore, I wanted to ask where to find the technical specifications for the mechanics of a piano like a Chickering, which no longer exists? thank you.

but at this point, having verified that many rolls need to be corrected... how is it possible to do so?

They must be detached and replaced ... The glue softens in alcohol....

I hope it can be of help, it is not a pleasant job....

Open content (youtube)

Anyway, what Pianoexpert said is of fundamental importance.... The dimensions ....

thank you very much. however, I think it is better to entrust this operation to an expert. The size shouldn't be wrong since those that are mounted correctly react well as in the video tutorial. but I repeat, I am just a musician, I cannot judge well, thanks again to everyone.

Certainly, perhaps it would have been better to rely on a professional right from the start so as to avoid doing the work twice

Regards

while waiting for the technician, I tried to follow the video instruction to extract the roll using a hammer from a note that is rarely played (in case I caused any damage). However, the result of using alcohol was that the leather casing came unglued rather than the wood. My hands got stained yellow and the roll lost its beauty and aesthetic cleanliness. I anyway turned the roll around and put it in the correct position using some wood glue. It seemed to me that it had increased slightly in size; although now it seems to work correctly, will the technician have the same problem?

But these are things to be done with caution.... You must have used a liter of alcohol anyway, once the drumhead is unglued it's to be thrown away.... a set of drumheads costs 100 euros!

Alcohol is applied with a small brush to both sides of the drumhead's wooden ring, after having detached the skin from the rim with a blade on both sides, precisely to allow the alcohol to penetrate into the wood....

You certainly cannot recover the old drumhead.

Bye

yes indeed I overdid it with the alcohol....can't one find 1 roll??

Any technician should have some leftovers...

Obviously, measurements are required.