Technical problems and their resolution

Schimmel upright piano keyboard lightening

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Maurisk78

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Opening post by Maurisk78

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2
City
Torino

Good evening,

Wishing to replace my old Furstenbach 116 studio piano with a higher-end one, I purchased a Schimmel upright C 121 from a dealer in Milan (second-hand but well-maintained); they delivered it last Saturday.

I have encountered some defects (which I think are easily resolvable anyway): 1) When depressing the left pedal of the piano, almost all the keys depress unevenly and the dampers do not dampen the sound... If it were normal, the hammers should only move closer to the strings, reducing their stroke and nothing else. What causes this? 2) The soft pedal (una corda) goes down but does not silence the sound, as if it weren't there, yet the felt cloth does not seem worn; perhaps it doesn't go down far enough? 3) It has a Renner action, but I find the keyboard rather hard and heavy; sometimes the keys (and therefore the hammers) do not perceive or play due to the low pressure I exert because perhaps I want to achieve a pianissimo in a delicate passage or a ppp... but since they don't sense the pressure, I am forced to apply more strength, causing the hammer to strike with too much energy, making it impossible to execute a pianissimo... So, is it possible to lighten the keyboard and thus make it more sensitive to the touch of the fingers without having to re-felt it? What can be done? In 10 days, my tuner should come by to fix these problems; I hope he succeeds. What do you advise me to do?

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Reply 2 by francescochopin90

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355
City
.

Frictions should be resolved first (in the laboratory and not at home with lubricants). Then one can proceed to an adjustment on the instrument. If the balancing has never been touched, I doubt it needs to be done.

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Reply 3 by pianoexpert

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3,876
City
rocca di papa

Maurizio,

The problems could be of various natures. The piano certainly lacks regulation, but as Francesco said, the friction of the pins in the entire action must first be checked, which definitely need to be replaced. This is not a job to be done at home. The dampers must be checked. The fact that they do not dampen may depend on a bad pedal regulation or an excessive readiness of each one. Once these problems are fixed, the keyboard balance can be checked, which, however, will surely be fine. Avoid weighting the keys beforehand (forward or backward from the pivot) thinking you are lightening them!!!! You only increase the mass, also compromising the hammer return!!!!! Absolutely do not use lubricants, except for DRY TEFLON lubricant (never greasy lubricants!!). But this is only an aid for some mechanical parts. Therefore, do not think of solving it by weighting or lubricating. (let's hope that, against common sense, it hasn't already been done!)

It is true that Schimmel loads the damper springs quite heavily, which, compared to other brands, result in being slightly more consistent upon key depression, but this should not be an impediment. Also check the pins of the damper action!.

It is evident that these things you are finding have to do with the price. The Schimmel is a high-quality piano, but expensive. If it was sold at a advantageous price, it probably needs to be overhauled and some work must be done (by an expert!). For example, the action pins must be replaced with larger ones, and the gasketed holes must be reamed with non-conical reamers. The friction coefficients must be respected (both regarding the hammer wippens, those of the jacks, those of the escapement levers....and also the damper action). The sum of these determines whether the action functions well or poorly, from which one can then demand—once these frictions are checked and following good regulation—the pianissimo, smoothness, repeated notes, etc.

P.S. The smoothness of the keys must also be checked. If the bushings are dirty or hardened, the key may descend seemingly correctly, but as the pianist strikes it with a slight lateral movement, it jams in its descent, causing difficulty and unevenness. The cashmere bushings of the front and central key slots must be checked and eventually replaced with first-quality cashmere. The pins must also be checked. If oxidized, they absolutely must be replaced, otherwise the wear on the new bushings will accelerate. (or perhaps just a regulation might be sufficient!) Everything needs to be seen, checked, and evaluated. Let me know

Regards

Paolo

P.S. Watch my video tutorials, in which I speak about these topics

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