I would like to ask for some advice. I have an old Schimmel piano. It is out of tune, about ten keys do not slide well, and four keys do not return after being pressed because the hammer has difficulty returning. Additionally, one key sounds a bit quieter than the others. The piano has always been in a seaside location, so with a high percentage of humidity.
It was bought new, used for one year, and then not touched again for 34 years. I would like to have the mechanics regulated and the piano tuned, and I would like to know what the average costs are. There are no technicians in my country, so I contacted a tuner located in a city seventy km away. The technician said he will come after collecting a certain number of requests in my area. The fact that he manages many clients per day makes me think he is one of those people who does their job more for profit than for passion. I have no experience in this field. That is why I am looking for references, to understand if the quote is in line with the interventions to be performed. From the forums, it appears that tuning costs 150 euros at most. The problem is the cost of the regulation (messa a punto). On average (roughly, approximately), how much can the regulation cost? Thank you, regards
Salvatore, we need to see what is causing this lack of key return. I assume you must change the center pins of the action, which have absorbed moisture. In this situation, the cashmere cloth with which the forcola holes are padded tightens around the pin and all movement is prevented. Then, of course, a good regulation and tuning is mandatory. Find a skilled technician who knows how to reactivate the action. Careful, the pins must be oversized, so the hole must be "reamed," possibly with straight reamers and not conical ones. Once the new pin is inserted, the part must move or, as they say, fall gently under its own weight. Another test: once the forcola is held down with a finger on the table, the part must not "wobble" (whether it be the hammer, the repetition lever, or the escapement lever). It is a job that requires experience. Such pins are present on the forcolas of the hammers, the repetitions, the escapement levers, and on the damper rods (it seems to me I understand it's an upright!). Then you must verify the smoothness of the keyboard (checking the central and front felts/gaskets and checking the condition of the pins!!!). Everything is reassembled and regulated. The piano is high quality and worth saving! The expense is not insignificant, but it needs to be seen to quantify it.
34 years of disuse for a piano is truly a lot! Unfortunately, regarding the keys and the action, it is no longer enough to change the environmental conditions to make friction problems or sluggish keys disappear.. Check that there are no radiators turned on in winter near the piano, an additional cause of stress in terms of humidity variation)
The fact that it is a wonderful Schimmel does not save it from 34 summers and winters of deformations and oxidations of the wood and metallic materials (pins, weights, springs); in this regard, to get an idea, in the video tutorial section guided by Maestro Ferrarelli, you will learn many notions about the functioning of the piano action and the friction involved and therefore, after having seen them, you will know how to look inside your piano and better analyze the situation, providing useful information to us or to the technician you will contact...
P.S. To be clear, regarding the price, the time required, and the success of the job are two variables that differ greatly from one technician to another! Be patient!
Greetings to Andry, Saverio and Salvatore. Salvatore, you can try, but I believe these situations are quite irreversible. Besides, as Andry says, after years of inactivity, a dehumidifier is not enough. I repeat, however, that this is mold (Schimmel) and it should be saved with an accurate restoration carried out by a competent person. Greetings to all
HA
Historical author
Reply 7 by Historical author
Hi Salvatore,
I am replying to you regarding your question about humidity.
Relative humidity, as piano manufacturers recommend, should be around 45-48%.
This humidity level guarantees the instrument the best mechanical efficiency.
In your case, I would first take steps to restore the efficiency of your beautiful piano and then consider installing a Piano Life Saver system.
This system is a device that regulates and stabilizes the humidity percentage inside the piano.
James is right. The device is effective. Additionally, in case of excessive humidity in the environment, I would also place a room dehumidifier. So, room dehumidifier + Piano Life Saver inside the instrument.
While waiting for the technician, I am using the piano, trying to notice everything that seems anomalous.
Observing the hammers at rest, I noticed that they are not all perfectly aligned. That is, along the row of hammers, every now and then (4 hammers) one is a millimeter further forward or backward compared to the others. Is this normal? Or should the hammers be realigned? Is it possible to perform the tuning leaving the hammers as they are?
Then I also noticed the presence of a hammer slightly rotated around its axis. That is, compared to the hammers next to it, it converges a bit toward one and diverges a bit from the other.
Using the piano, the action has loosened up a bit, but it has still remained a bit hard and woody. Clearly, I will have to change the center pins, but I don't think this is a job within the reach of all technicians. So I thought of proceeding this way: at first, I will have only the tuning performed; this will allow me to get to know the technician and see how they work. The first tuning generally doesn't hold and needs to be repeated after a short time. At that point, I can decide whether to turn to the same technician also for the restoration of the action, or to look for someone else.
Great process. Anyway, if it hasn't been a long time since the piano was tuned, you need to check the tuning pins (Diapason). Bring the tuning back to level 440 (or even slightly above) and then perform a stabilization tuning. However, it depends on the condition of the strings. If they have a lot of rust or if the piano has been under tension for a long time, some might break. But it is a job that must be done. This risk also depends on the fact that, if it was left low for a long time, a so-called leveling crease has formed on the string at the tuning pin, which is now being moved with the risk of breaking at that point. Everything to be seen, anyway. Also here, from these evaluations, you will be able to gauge the competence and prudence of the Technician.
Only that one is changed; at most, in the steel ones, if they are "straddling," two are changed. In any case, it is important that the piano reaches A 440. Some technicians encourage the client to keep the piano low. In reality, even if there is a risk, it must be faced and the piano must be brought back to its true voice. First, a tuning is done even at a level higher than 440, and then, immediately after, a fine tuning to 440. The piano should hold. It should nonetheless be reviewed and checked after a couple of months. It is evident that the considerable loss of tuning stability must not have depended on the poor grip of the tuning pins. In that case, even the stability following the tunings would not be good. The technician must sincerely declare if the pins are well-seated in their respective holes; otherwise, the work is useless. It may also happen that there is still space to hammer them and reach the end of the hole in the soundboard that has not yet given way. If this is possible, the pins must be hammered before proceeding with the tunings. Good luck with the work.
here is how things are progressing with my old Schimmel upright piano.
The tuner came and performed the first tuning. The internal frictions were found to be within normal limits. However, there are three keys that make a slight squeaking sound when pressed, similar to door hinges, but only barely perceptible. Is there a remedy?
As our Maestro Paolo Ferrarelli suggests in his many tutorials dedicated to the mechanics of the pf ....try spraying a bit of PTFE dry lubricant on the key bushings or between the keys..who knows, maybe they will release from the friction.
The squeak probably depends on some center pins. You need to identify which one. Identify the keys and disassemble the rail and hammer: check the three center pins: rail fork, hammer fork, escapement upright pin. Generally, it is the escapement upright that "whistles." Let me know
Everything James said is correct. I would also say that shaving changes the strike point on the strings and changes the entire position of the "geometry" of the action. Obviously, shaving, voicing, and tuning are strictly related interventions. In shaving, it is very important to respect the shape of the hammers: certainly more rounded in the bass and more pointed in the treble (so-called diamond shape).
