Switch to acoustic?

The Kawai CA series is very good. Naturally, with digital instruments, we get used to the uniformity of mechanical performance and a somewhat "packaged" sound....so much so that when we compare it to the best acoustic, everything seems strange and almost unsatisfying to us. Pianistically speaking, we must "detach ourselves," "move away" from this model, especially if we are on a path of technical-musical learning development. Therefore, you are right to consider purchasing an acoustic, provided that you can monitor and control its efficiency. You can watch my tutorials, in which I emphasize to fellow pianists the importance of a well-functioning instrument.

First of all, thank you; I have watched your tutorials many times because, in addition to loving the piano from a musical point of view, I am very curious from a mechanical and general functional standpoint (in fact, it occurred to me to buy a piano from a private individual and "overhaul" it myself... Then I gave up because I would have risked spending money uselessly without anyone guiding me)

Returning to the purchase of the piano, the largest available room is 10m²... What is the ideal height of the piano to avoid echoes or reverberations?

Would a 130cm one be very large?

Given that my videos do not claim to turn pianists into technicians, they are meant to help understand what is happening and, if necessary, to rely on a technician whom one is capable of evaluating as truly competent. Therefore, at least at the beginning, no improvisations or "do-it-yourself." A few extra centimeters or fewer do not compromise the piano's performance in a small space. If necessary, one can intervene on the hammer voicing or install an unconditioned hammer rail (hammer felt/action part). Especially if purchasing an old used piano, it is almost always necessary to replace the hammer rail (anyway, even if not very worn, hardened over time). In that case, the old one is kept (very important!!!!!) and a hammer rail suitable for the modest listening space is installed. Returning the original hammer rail does not make the piano lose its "identity"! Furthermore, it preserves the possibility of having two optional hammer rails, e.g., an original Yamaha (even if worn) and an Abel or a Renner reinstalled and suitable in size and drilling for that specific instrument model.

Therefore, when purchasing a used piano, evaluate the economic margin to be able to intervene and replace, for example, a hammer rail. Then we will have a piano fine-tuned exactly as we desire, without losing its original identity.

Naturally, for upright pianos, a tall model is preferable because it is less disharmonious and more high-performing. Regarding the efficiency of the mechanical action (which is extremely important), everything must be checked. Where are you located?

pianoexpert wrote:

On 4/9/2022 at 08:15, pianoexpert said:

In case one intervenes on the hammer voicing or a non-impregnated hammer rail is installed. Especially if one purchases an old and dated used piano, it is almost always necessary to replace the hammer rail (anyway, even if not very marked, hardened over time). In that case, the old one is kept (very important!!!!!) and a hammer rail suitable for the modest listening space is installed. Replacing the hammer rail does not make the piano lose its "identity"! Furthermore, it preserves the possibility of having two optional hammer rails, e.g., an original Yamaha (even if worn) and an Abel or a Renner reinstalled and suitable in size and drilling for that specific instrument model.

This concept is not clear to me...

To improve the sound in a small room, must one "soften the sound" with voicing or otherwise change the hammer rail even with a new piano?

Or only in the case of a used one?

In the case of a new purchase, (if I like the sound as it is) by leaving the hammers as they were prepared, do I risk having bad acoustics in my case?

Anyway, I am near Bari

It's all to be seen... or rather, heard. First of all, the original hammer rail must be examined and then a decision is made. With tuning, one can go only so far, but never "distort" the sound intended by the Manufacturer for that model, with those hammers. I meant to say that if one decides to change a hammer rail because, for example, in that small space, the volume of the sound is particularly strong, striking (but also for various other reasons), one can choose a less "powerful," non-impregnated hammer rail prepared with a particular voicing, while leaving the original intact and preserved, mounted on its shanks.

pianoexpert wrote:

11 hours ago, pianoexpert said:

never "distort" the sound intended by the House for that model

That was what I was worried about. Thank you very much maestro for all the information given!