Taflon

great, that's the one!!!!!!

Thank you, especially for your video lessons!

Thank you for watching them. Naturally, they cannot and must not be actual training courses, but only an indication to better know our instrument and to be able to go deeper, with consequent pianistic advantages. The preparation and tuning of the piano are essential to obtain the maximum performance from the instrument regarding its functioning and sound, and therefore to truly favor musical and professional growth. Lastly, knowing how to better communicate with one's own technician and evaluate the reliability of the proposed interventions made by them to improve and maintain the instrument

pianoexpert wrote:

10 hours ago, pianoexpert said:

Without a doubt, I will treasure it ☺

Is the product in question, CRC teflub, also suitable for the tray?, that is, to facilitate the extraction of the mechanism?...

Furthermore, is this product also suitable for eliminating friction on the rollers?

Also, I didn't quite understand if the CRC teflub would be teflon or similar...

I apologize for the numerous questions, thank you for your input...

The large board is fine! For the rollers, NO! For the rollers, microteflon powder is necessary, which can be found in foreign supplies. Search on the internet. However, it must be known how to apply it, following the preparation of the rollers. It is appropriate that an expert does this... who knows the product and knows how to restore the rollers. DO NOT USE TALC UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!!!!

Talc is hygroscopic, teflon is NOT!

Thanks, I will limit myself only to use on the wooden board.

Good morning,

can the indicated teflon product be used for dampers?

In summer I always have a couple that do not descend promptly, leaving the strings to resonate.

Thank you.

I think it is better to check the damper mechanism pins. In this case, the teflon would be a temporary palliative until the pins are replaced.

What Francesco says is correct. The lack of descent (we are talking about the tail) can depend on: mechanical pins or perhaps rods being too tight, or perhaps the weights of the damper mechanism that have oxidized, swollen, and are touching each other.

It is nonetheless appropriate to check the entire mechanism and all the mechanical pins. Sometimes we get used to a hard keyboard and do not check the state of friction until it definitively prevents the movement of the parts. The fact that the dampers are working poorly is a symptom. With excessive friction, I recall, the downward weight of the keys becomes excessive (a sensation of hardness) and the return weight (even more important) becomes too low, preventing us from easily executing fast passages, repeated notes, ornaments, etc..

It is necessary to verify and measure the friction and eventually replace the fork pins, taking care to slightly ream the bushings (strictly with straight reamers and not conical ones!!!) and increase the size of the pins themselves by one size. Values: hammer rails 3-5 gr. Jack rails 3-7 gr. Escapement studs: once freed from the spring, they must fall, moving under their own weight (1-2 gr.). For the dampers, the values 3-7 gr. apply.

The mechanism will return to new life.

P.S. I wanted to add, also for Bosendorfer, that Teflon micro-powder, as well as graphite, helps to improve, but does not free movement which, if impeded, will not become regular again even by applying dry lubricants. Therefore, first restore the "health of the mechanism" and then, if necessary, improve with graphite and Teflon powder (always moderately).

Many thanks for the precious and kind information.

In any case, I have noticed from experience that there is a distinction between "physiological" friction (excessive ambient humidity) and "pathological" friction (pins that need to be replaced): in the first case, the resistance is minimal and playing on it for a bit is enough to "loosen" the articulation points; in the second case, these resistances are very evident and not so reversible.