THE KEY IS NOT RESPONDING

That could be everything. Generally, it depends on the hammer forcola pivot, or the jack, or the escapement upright... or all three. If anything, the repetition lever spring.... but that doesn't break... it might just slip out of its seat. Disassemble the hammer and see if the forcola is stiff. The forcola must fall smoothly and uniformly under its own weight. Perhaps you need to check all the friction in all the forcole. Do it sample by sample, one at a time, so as not to lose alignment. Excessive friction makes the piano perform at 30%. Let me know

P.S. Warning: no lubricant!!!!!

Thank you, I have to prepare myself psychologically to extract the mechanism, then I will update you on the results. Have a good day

The base of the stand is split longitudinally, affecting the felt pad holes. Should I glue it with Titebond 3 or Vinavil? Thanks

probably this happened while extracting the mechanism!!!!! I was about to write to you... I didn't make it in time. Now there is nothing you can do except replace the hammer pin. You can try to reglue it, but I don't know what result you can achieve with the sliding of the capstan. Try and let me know. Also test some other hammer pins as I indicated to you! Then we will see what needs to be done.

Use Titebond

It was broken before extracting the action; the hammer head was loose to the left and right, plus I noticed a previous gluing for some parts that appeared reflective (most likely cyanoacrylate). I think I will glue with Titebond since it also works on smooth surfaces. I have a doubt whether to glue outside of the capstan (but it is difficult to remove the pins) which would result in cleaner work, or with the felts on the capstan without removing the pin (with the risk that part of the glue might then prevent movement). What do you advise? Also, how can I remove the pin without damaging the capstan? Thank you

a special pair of pliers is required and then the pin must be oversized after boring out the cashmere. Try to repair it without removing the pin. I doubt that the knuckle can slide well. Remember to check a few other knuckles as a sample to see if, in general, the friction is excessive. If so, you should notice an excessive weight when depressing the keys and a reduced return weight. In other words, a "mushy" keyboard that is not very "responsive," which forces you to over-tension the repetition spring! Good luck with your work

Thanks for everything, I will keep you updated on the developments

After a few hours of practice and rethinking, I glued it. I used aliphatic glue instead of vinyl for the appearance of non-porous surfaces and for the ability to sand it to finish the work. The fork is free and the pieces fit together well enough; the worst part (the other one) shows the mark of the split, but I was also lucky because it seems to have turned out well. Tomorrow I will mount the piece, but I will test it on Monday out of excessive zeal regarding the glue's grip, so I will update you on the final result. Thanks for the good advice, Maurizio

I hope you clamped it. The test you must perform is: hold the fork with one hand and with the other see if the lever oscillates left and right. It must be very solid but fall gently under the weight of its own screw inserted into the fixing hole. The same goes (as a sample check) for the other maretelli! (check!!!)

The check went as you stated, checked with another sample it resulted compliant; before reassembling the action, I would like to know if there is any system to make the mids and highs less aggressive without resorting to pitting the hammer heads, thank you

procere leggi procedere

If it is possible to know how to adjust the height of the felts that dampen the return of the hammer on the Yamaha C3, thank you

I do not recommend touching the hammers. Tuning is a matter for experts. The intervention is dangerous! You risk making the hammers unusable! Even many technicians improvise on this intervention and, sometimes, you end up no longer having a clear and powerful sound, but sweet in the piano and pianissimo. The piano and pianissimo also depend on the fine regulation of the action. The forte and fortissimo also depend on the correct geometry of the action. The hammer rest bushings are not adjustable. If the regulation of the action is done properly and the hammer rail has not been shaved, they maintain the correct clearance with the shanks at rest. (the shanks must not touch the bushings in the resting position!)

Thanks, I'll try to reassemble it

I limited myself to realigning the hammer heads, since over time they were creating a slight indentation in the middle part (perhaps the decisive attack also depends on this); having reassembled everything, it seems to be working at its best. The last remaining doubt is about the strength of the bonding over time, which anyway shouldn't create problems given that aliphatic glue has a bonding strength of 4000 compared to 3000 for a vinyl D2. Thank you truly for everything, especially for the videos which, late one evening, allowed me to understand many details of the piano. Happy New Year wishes also to those who have followed this forum, Maurizio

You also replaced the roll, I see...

No, the roll is the same, cleaned up