Yamaha C3X

To see it clearly, you should place a finger on the damper without pressing it, then press the key. This way you can feel when it engages the damper.

To see it clearly, you should place a finger on the damper without pressing it, then press the key. This way you can feel when it engages the damper.

Regarding the "string marks," I see that the hammers are positioned well under the strings; to be pedantic, perhaps there is something to correct. In any case, before correcting the centering, even slightly, one must verify that they all rise parallel (correction papers) and even before that, that they are all straight on axis (flashlight/alignment check).

Anyway, it's fine as it is.

More than anything, they all seem too far to the left to me; if more space is needed, it should rather be available to the right of the last string. In this case, before acting on the individual hammer, one must shim the mechanical guide, the block where the action rests on the left, on the soundboard. But one must evaluate the overall situation; photos are often deceiving.

Then on the high notes where there are no hitch pins, it is verified whether the string spacing is correct; it can be corrected if it is not.

giovannig wrote:

To see it clearly, you should place a finger on the damper without pressing it, then press the key. This way you can feel when it engages the damper.

I can see clearly when it starts to lift, but I wasn't able to determine the precise measurement with a decimeter.

Don't you think that the lifted damper of the bass notes is too close to the string?

giovannig wrote:

Above all, they all seem too far to the left to me; if more space is needed, it should rather be available to the right of the last string. In this case, before acting on the individual hammer, one must shim the mechanical guide, the block where the action rests on the left, on the soundboard. But one must evaluate the whole picture; photos are often deceiving.

That is exactly what I meant, the entire action seems slightly shifted to the left to me.

by pressing the "1 string" pedal slightly and making all the hammers shift to the right, everything appears more centered.

Is there no fine adjustment for this regulation?

No, I don't think it's okay; it's normal for the Prisma two-string to be a bit lower like this because it penetrates between the strings.

It seems well centered to me and doesn't touch anywhere.

You could try centering the action more to the right using a 6/10 cardboard, like a shoebox. Place it behind the block to the left of the action, cut so that it covers the entire surface of the block (it must be unscrewed first obviously, then screwed back in; without glue, the pressure of the block with the screws is enough to keep everything steady).

http://www.kawaius-tsd.com/PDF/Regulation%20GP-English%201.6.pdf

Read this little manual; it's useful and explains the checks normally performed on a piano before delivering it.

Let me know

kklaus wrote:

This is exactly what I meant, the entire action seems slightly shifted to the left.

by pressing the "1 string" pedal lightly and moving all the hammers to the right, everything results in being more centered.

Is there no fine adjustment screw for this regulation?

You need to put a shim under the block as I told you, read the Kawai manual (it is also applicable in your case) and you will see that you understand everything.

If you have any questions, we are here.

Page 4

giovannig wrote:

No, it seems to me that it's fine; it's normal for the two-string Prisma to be a bit lower like this because it penetrates between the strings.

It looks well-centered to me and doesn't touch anywhere.

You could try centering the action more to the right using a 6/10 cardboard, like a shoebox. Place it behind the block to the left of the action, cut so that it covers the entire surface of the block (it must be unscrewed first, obviously; once screwed back in, without glue, the pressure of the block with the screws is enough to keep everything steady).

http://www.kawaius-tsd.com/PDF/Regulation%20GP-English%201.6.pdf

Read this little manual; it's useful and explains the checks normally performed on a piano before delivering it.

Let me know

Great Giovanni!!!

i will tell you that I had also thought of something like that, but it seemed too "Spartan" as a solution to me.

I wonder, however, how it is possible that Yamaha does not perform these adjustments in the factory. Personal tuning is fine, a certain finesse on the levers and the escapement, but hammers not aligned with the strings...

kklaus wrote:

Great Giovanni!!!

i will tell you that I had also thought of something like that, but it seemed too "Spartan" as a solution.

I wonder, however, how it is possible that Yamaha does not perform these adjustments in the factory. Personal tuning is fine, a certain finesse on the levers and the escapement, but hammers not aligned with the strings..

They are just fine details; in the end, if the hammers strike three strings, the piano is fine.

Generally, the dealer performs this kind of fine work, provided they do it at all... obviously, these steps must be paid for; they don't come at zero cost.

Ciao

The added value of a piano today is not so much the manufacturing, as the level is now good almost everywhere, but the man-hours that were spent preparing it. One just needs to avoid inventing things and getting lost in philosophical discussions that have little practical utility, because one risks entering a vicious cycle of general dissatisfaction from which it is then difficult to emerge, especially when drawing from the internet where everyone can write about anything. Certainly, a manufacturer's manual, even if not exhaustive and dedicated to a particular product, is a good guide. There are measurements and adjustments that change depending on the model or taste, but certain issues like those regarding the positioning of the action are common to all instruments.

Don't take it as gospel; if you have a doubt, ask. Basically, your instrument is in order, I am sure, and it does not require major interventions.

giovannig wrote:

They are just fine details; in the end, the hammers strike three strings, the piano is fine.

These fine adjustments are generally done by the dealer, provided they do them at all... obviously these steps must be paid for, they don't come at zero cost.

Ciao

I will just have to accept it; luckily I have some manual dexterity and the tools to perform these small interventions... I will post a new photo after centering the action.

thanks so much for the support,

bye

I agree with the concepts expressed by giovanni. The preparation of the piano is fundamental

giovannig wrote:

More than anything, they all seem too far to the left to me; if more space is needed, it should rather be gained to the right of the last string. In this case, before acting on the individual hammer, one must shim the mechanical guide, the block where the action rests on the left, on the keybed. But one must evaluate the overall situation; photos are often deceiving.

Hi giovannig,

thanks again for the little Kawai manual, truly useful. I will make a few attempts to recover the Yamaha one as well.

The operation you suggested and illustrated in the manual was truly simple and fast.

You are also right about the fact that photos are deceiving! With the action removed, I realized that the string marks on the hammers are not actually that off-center, just a few...

I finished the operation anyway, but the result was that the hammers all ended up off-center to the right, so I restored them to their original position.

I believe this is the best thing to do, do you agree?

Of course, in this case it is enough to correct only the off-center hammers; it may be necessary to use a correction shim.

Anyway, being "too far to the right or too far to the left" depends on which thickness you insert.

I am convinced that since the piano is new, there are truly very few things to correct; however, you can carry out your own tests because, as you can see, they are reversible.

But do not overdo it

Without exaggerating, I will follow this advice.

It is good anyway to be aware of what can be done and sometimes it is difficult to explain a sensation to the technician..

It is difficult because the technician should not be seen as a leech but as a trusted person, and fortunately we have many good technicians in Italy, some better as mechanics and others better as finishers.

Often dissatisfaction arises from a misunderstanding.

I like this exchange of advice of yours, which is moreover correct and constructive. I just wanted to clarify that if the hammers in question start well spaced apart and arrive still well spaced apart, you should not add paper strips under the crack rail, either on the right or on the left. The paper strips must serve exclusively to deflect and straighten the path of those hammers that rise with a deviated stroke. Pure and simple centering can be modified by loosening the crack rail screw and moving it to the right or to the left. Good work