Hammer rail replacement

Delicate matter. I would say that you can perfectly reproduce a hammer head. Abel does it, and not just them. I want to make it very clear, due to issues and silly accusations we have faced in the past, that we cannot and do not want to exclusively suggest any company that provides piano spare parts, especially since, as a matter of principle, we do not accept advertising proposals. While it remains true that Renner, Abel, Rosen, and even other Eastern companies produce hammers of different craftsmanship, embracing various and different construction "philosophies," one must always choose a hammer head identical or similar in shape, weight, color, and quality to the original. Except for the possibility of mounting an original Yamaha (which would involve long work of felt impregnation and voicing, very close to factory procedures), a Renner or an Abel will do fine. The latter requires little voicing and can be built by Abel upon request with any underfelt color (it is also possible to impregnate it gray as in the photo) and with varied hardness upon request.

Now, it would be interesting to know why you decided to change it. From the photo you posted, the hammer looks good. It's fine that it is hammer 2, which hasn't been played much; one should see the others. In any case, before changing (which does not always guarantee a better sonic result), it is advisable to understand what is wrong with the old one.

Furthermore, it is appropriate to mount the new one on new shanks and keep the old one. Never throw away the original (if it has already been replaced and the previous one thrown away....very bad!!!!)

P.S. The thickness of the hammers must be that established by the Manufacturer. I am not sure if the C3 has "cut" lows as in the photo... perhaps that serial number.... check!!!

P.S. ....They don't make this anymore,,,, etc.... I would say translated..... I have this and I put this (this time I boldly advance a criticism regarding the technician's sincerity)

I am sending a few photos. I believe the cantabile hammers are quite flat. However, under the fingers, the keyboard is excellent, something I believe wouldn't happen if the hammer action were not suitable for the instrument.

The problem lies in the fact that it was shaved, and shaved incorrectly. The shape is too rounded, especially on the mids and highs, which has shortened its life. Naturally, it has become lighter... but you must check the key return weight. Anyway, if it's okay with you, have it worked on again. The sound shouldn't be crisp because I see it as rather woolly at the apex.

I have already agreed to the replacement. I like the sound, but I would like it to be more decisive. I contacted the seller directly (very well known in Italy) who assured me that I will have a hammer rail identical to the one currently installed. Thanks to the warranty, I will have to pay very little (that small amount is because theoretically it does not cover this work). I demanded the return of the current hammer rail.

The hammer I see in the photo has a construction that is no longer standard; no one performs the impregnation of the cone in that way anymore, and many hammer makers use a glued double/triple cone to form the hammer (if you look closely at the current Abel for C3, you can see small rings and the three layers of glued felt).

Therefore, I doubt you will receive an identical hammer, don't believe it because that is not how it works. If you order the Abel for C3, you get what you see here in the photo, and they are two completely different hammers, even if they may seem similar to an untrained eye. I would ask Yamaha for an original pre-voicing hammer (it costs more, but at least the drilling is precise and you avoid interventions such as tapering the hammers, which on the basses have been shaved down, and that's not how it should be).

Look closely at the photos, bye.

The hammers on your piano look similar, very similar, to the Imadegawa (Japanese company) hammers that I have often seen installed on "refurbished" Yamahas, even uprights; who knows, they probably installed them originally too. I still keep an Imadegawa hammer from a set I found installed on an old Steinway—goodness, what a hammer action!!!! I wonder if FTP still has some leftovers on the shelves; they listed them in the catalog in 2000/2001 as "high quality" hammers but without indicating the brand.

Ciao

For me, an Abel is a safe bet. It has a beautiful sound; it doesn't sound like a Yamaha at all. Very warm, with resonant highs and bass that "tremble under your feet." It's a pity it doesn't sound like that anymore; there are some very harsh and edgy sounds, especially when playing loudly. However, you can feel the quality. The sound is more similar to a Steinway than a Yamaha; you can feel the "hammer." I hope the new action also sounds like this. Unfortunately, it needs to be changed: there are sounds that are annoying, they jar me. Also, the keyboard is a bit light (but "present"), a sign of different shaving/planing, as pianoexpert used to say. Another thing, which isn't related to the action, is that I hear the sounds as very short, but only from my position. You just have to stand up or listen from another person's perspective to hear very long sounds. I mainly hear the percussive component of the sound, which can be appreciated from positions other than the bench.

Can you explain to me what tapering is and how it affects the sound and the touch?

And excuse the errors: it's my Tablet's "autocorrect"!!! Ahahahah

If you are sure, it means the hammer you have is stamped ABEL, right? Not just because someone told you so.

They probably worked in a different way; what you would receive today would be different in construction and type of reinforcement/shaping. Do not expect it to be identical.

The hand-tapering as in your case consists of cutting two slices of felt from the hammer, obliquely, on one side and on the other in an alternating manner to prevent them from colliding. It is a remedy used when the thickness of the hammer is incorrect, too wide.

It affects the sound in terms of power (the hammer becomes slightly lighter, about half a gram, and has a weaker impact on the string at the same touch since the inertial mass is lower), but not in terms of timbre, as the timbre varies in relation to the type/density of the felt. The "voicing" intervention actually corrects the timbre by acting on the felt, not the tone.

Bye

Identical, no, but something that works on my instrument. Is there a way to trace the specifications of the original hammer mechanism starting from the serial number? Without calling Yamaha, obviously.

Just look at contemporary instruments, but I believe it was of the type you have.

In any case, they don't make them anymore.

Can it be seen on the internet? Can I have the link?

Stop going from shop to shop; if you want, I can send you to a shop that has a C3 with the hammer felt still original, serial number around 2 million, and it is like this: impregnated and with yellow underfelt. Meanwhile, around 4 million they switch to red underfelt, then the impregnation disappears, and today with the C3 X they make the hammer with two layers of felt.

But what is the problem? If you change it, you will have to choose a suitable one. You won't find an identical one

Here it is, you can see it well in a pine built between the 70s and 80s

But I don't understand what changes. Bye

Open content (youtube)

I'm just afraid that an unsuitable one will be installed on me. Is this model okay? http://abel-pianoparts.de/index.php?index=1&lng=en&menuid=48&ordner=shop.artikel-19-201

Among the Yamaha hammers, I found Yamaha C3.5. What is that about? I don't think it's C5 because there was no comma. And then the same indication in different catalogs.

I would ask Yamaha for the hammer rail, but that's just my opinion. That hammer rail you linked is the same one I put photos of above (I don't know if you noticed or if you understood) and the price is also between my two photos. It is an inexpensive hammer rail, it is not original Yamaha, and if the piano were mine, I would leave that worn one rather than install the one we linked. But it's just my opinion, do as you wish.

It's true, it's the same one. I prefer it.

As giovannig correctly suggests to you, there is a difference and I too would make sure that the replacement meets your needs. Otherwise, it is better to leave the old one for now.