i am a new entry to the forum and given the vastness of the topics and the expertise of the responses, I would like to pose some questions regarding my newly purchased C3X.
It is an instrument imported directly from Japan and therefore has not been prepared by anyone.
The instrument is in the settling-in phase and is awaiting its second tuning two months after the initial setup.
I thought that the factory performed checks before being sent for sale anyway, but I have found 3 keys with slight friction, the middle pedal detached from the metal bar that holds the dampers raised, the last damper on the right slightly damaged on the felt, and one of the three strings is not being dampened.
It also seems to me that the resonance pedal does not lift the dampers sufficiently; do you know how much the distance between the string and the damper (when raised) should be? In this case, is it sufficient to adjust the external screw on the pedal rod?
What other interventions are necessary to perform on a new piano?
The distance between the string and the damper is not a parameter that is generally of interest to measure; as for pedal regulation, one could write entire encyclopedias.... I could tell you how I like it, and how I generally want it to function on my pianos.
I start from the assumption that the damper works in such a way that it begins to lift when the hammer is 22 mm from the strings, i.e., at about half of the hammer's useful stroke, or shortly after. Once verified that this is indeed the case, the damper reaches a certain height with the key fully depressed. Well, I like it when the dampers lifted by the pedal reach the same height they reach when actuated by the key, i.e., when playing without the pedal.
Finally, the damper lifter rail must not be set too tight; generally, one or two mm of air are kept between the pad and the damper holder so that one can keep the foot on the pedal at rest without it accidentally actuating the dampers, i.e., so that there is simply a minimum amount of play.
In pianos where adjustable rods with nuts are provided, the damper pilots and perhaps even the spoons (not the case for Yamaha), adjustments in the world of dampers are greatly facilitated.
With Steinway, no.
Adjustments are always subjective and customizable; they must be evaluated on a case-by-case basis.
It is not possible to give directions based on what he says. The regulation of the dampers is a very delicate matter. A minimum misalignment can cause sound trailing. Furthermore, the onset of each damper is standard at the halfway point of the hammer stroke. However, such regulation depends on the acoustics of the room and also somewhat on what the pianist is used to. A delayed onset of the damper will make legato more difficult and vice versa.
Regarding the sostenuto pedal, the starting point must be adjusted using the nut on the rod, and then the end-stop on the lever under the piano; sometimes it is made with felt spacers, sometimes there is a screw.
Between these two things, it is necessary to verify that the dampers work correctly, meaning that they all rise together, etc...
It is not possible to give directions based on what he says. The regulation of the dampers is a very delicate matter. A minimum misalignment can cause sound trailing (coda di suono). Furthermore, the release of each damper is standard at the midpoint of the hammer stroke. However, such regulation depends on the acoustics of the room and also somewhat on what the pianist is used to. A delayed damper release will make legato more difficult and vice versa.
Thank you Paolo and giovannig for your answers.
The piano is new and there is no misalignment, it's just that the raised dampers seem very close to the vibrating strings; I don't remember how those on the piano I replaced were (also a C3)
Now I will check the damper release at the midpoint of the hammer stroke as suggested
another thing I noticed is that the sostenuto pedal lifts the dampers in question even further compared to the key and the resonance pedal
the damper lifted by the pedal and the key alone, however, results at the same height
Yes, the tonal [adjustment] generally brings the dampers a little higher... that is correct.
Well, if they are all aligned, if the height with key and pedal is the same, I would say it's fine. As long as the damping begins to lift halfway through the hammer stroke.
Is your concern merely visual or dictated by a sense of discomfort?
Ah, the little loop of the last damper is cut on purpose so as to leave the last string free; it's not a defect. It is done to have continuity between the damped section and the last section.
Yes, the tuner generally brings the dampers a little higher... that is correct.
Well, if they are all aligned, if the height with key and with pedal is the same, I would say it's fine. As long as the damping begins to lift halfway through the hammer stroke.
Is your concern only visual or dictated by a sense of unease?
I confirm, the dampers are perfectly aligned; tonight I will check the start of the lift at mid-stroke.
The concern is only visual, certainly dictated by "new piano" stress.
Ah, the bow of the last damper is cut specifically so as to leave the last string free; it is not a defect. It is done to ensure continuity between the damped section and the last section.
Ciao
I absolutely didn't know!! and I had never even noticed this thing on the old piano (which wasn't actually that old anyway)
You were probably used to an older piano where the hammer felt (fiocchetti) were more compressed, and so it gave you the impression that the damping rose more because you saw a greater distance between the string and the hammer felt.
That's all. The slight friction is likely due to the gaskets being too tight; the piano is new. They can be adjusted or left as they are if the key isn't stuck; everything will settle in with playing.
I had absolutely no idea!! and I had never even noticed this thing on the old piano (which wasn't actually that old anyway)
It's a subtlety, very common! For the keys where you feel friction, you could move them up and down several times roughly so that the seal stretches a little; it's likely to pass even like that if it's the front ones causing problems.
You were probably used to an older piano where the hammer feltings were more compressed, and so it gave you the impression that the damping rose more because you saw a greater distance between the string and the felt.
That's all. The slight friction is likely due to the gaskets being too tight; the piano is new. They can be adjusted or left as they are if the key isn't stuck; everything will settle in with playing.
Ciao.
Yes, likely.
Regarding the keys, I have some problems with the repetition (ribattuto); I haven't had the courage to remove them because I've never done it before. I will wait a little longer...
These are interventions that you must evaluate with your technician; he must understand your taste and hear the piano. One cannot say anything from here, other than general remarks regarding tuning procedures, as has already been done on other occasions.
What must be avoided is distorting the piano's character by intervening on the timbre; it is better to act with repeated interventions over time and with caution.
Yes, if the tonal [regulation] generally brings the dampers a little higher... that is correct.
Well, if they are all aligned, if the height with key and with pedal is the same, I would say it's fine. As long as the damper begins to lift halfway through the hammer stroke.
Is your concern merely visual or dictated by a discomfort?
Hi giovannig,
forgive me, but yesterday I had to interrupt our conversation.
I checked the initial lifting point of the damper by eye; I need to look for a graduated rod for a precise measurement. It seems to me anyway that it begins to lift beyond halfway through the hammer stroke.
